There comes a time in life when things just get super busy. Day-to-day routines get marred by unexpected events. Work gets ramped up with deadlines, new initiatives, and the incessant pressure of succeeding. And it's usually during these stressful times when the demands of work, family, and life coincide with a fresh swell and offshore winds. Paddle time gets forfeited, chips and beer become the release, and as the belly gets a little bigger, a few new gray hairs pop up top. It’s called getting old, right? But taken in stride, it’s just a temporary sidetrack; a hurdle that will be overcome. The best cure, at least for those who seek peace and happiness in the water, is of course, getting wet.
And so it was the other evening, when I finally got back to the Source. After missing early morning dawn patrol (sleep is sometimes more important) and then missing a late afternoon sesh (parent conference and dinner), I was able to get down to the beach for an evening sunset session.
Having lived away from the beach for the last few years, I almost forgot the simple beauty of the beach during that golden hour (or 2) before the sun goes down. The strong sea breeze of the day relented to glass. Beach roses in full bloom smelled of tropical glory. And the gentle crash of the small swell drowned all thoughts in my head of the month’s stresses.
After a brutal winter of ice, snow, wind and cold, it felt liberating to shed the wetsuit for board shorts. Putting in and diving under the first line of whitewater stopped all train of thought dead in its tracks. From that moment on, and for the next hour, all I cared about, thought about and acted on was how I responded with each new wave, each new set. I temporarily transcended my reality of being, and simply flowed with the ocean. This meditative state instantly put me at ease with my life- the stresses at work, the responsibilities to my family, and that voice inside my head.
As the sun set, the ocean grew calmer. Beachgoers, surfers, and paddlers alike were soaking in the moment. The sky went pink, then purple, and as I rode my last wave in, I gave thanks to the greater presence that provided a much needed recharge to my soul.
Composed By Ambassador Shawn McDonald
