Paddling Cape
Breton, Nova Scotia
Cape Breton
Island, located on the Northeastern tip of Nova Scotia, is a stellar
destination for SUP. To the East lies the Atlantic Ocean, to the West is the
Northumberland Strait, and in the middle lies the salt water Bras D’Ore Lake.
No matter where you are on CB, paddle opportunities abound. One particular area
that I’ve spent time exploring is on the Western shore (Northumberland Strait
side), centered out of the fishing village of Mabou.
Between
Port Hood to the South, and Inverness to the North, this rugged stretch of
coast line has amazing geological features such as caves, cliffs, rocky coves,
and sandy beaches. The physical orientation of the coastline goes Southwest to
Northeast, making the prevailing Southwesterly winds a perfect match for
downwinding. One of my favorite runs is from West Mabou beach to Inverness
Beach, a 14 mile adventure chock full of amazing wildlife, 100’ sea cliffs,
hidden beaches and cascading waterfalls.
My
adventure began after spending 2 weeks exploring the local shoreline between
Mabou and Port Hood, getting accustomed to the local tides and winds. With only
a road map, I examined some potential downwind routes, and figured West Mabou
to Inverness would provide a unique first for me. I coordinated with my family
to pick me up in Inverness Harbor, and packed enough water/food to last 4-5
hours. Little did I know that this one-way trip was going to become one of my
top paddles of my life!
Pushing off
the sandy beach after hugs and kisses with my wife and kids, I knew I was going
to be pretty far from communications until I reached Inverness. If something
happened, I was on my own to figure out how to get through the situation.
Luckily, the only situation I ran into, was having my headphones die on me 40
minutes in! There are very few places I’ve paddled where I’ve been so close to
land, yet so far away from accessibility. For most of this journey, I paddled
within a half mile from land, but the towering cliffs made it next to impossible
to find shelter, let alone help if I got into trouble.
Easing
along the 4 mile stretch between West Mabou Beach and the Mabou Mines Harbor, I
had a solid Southwesterly breeze starting to kick up. I had the wind to my rear
port-side until I made the turn around Sight Point, about 5 miles in. After the
turn towards the East, the 15mph wind was at my back and I darted downwind
towards Inverness. Along the way, I was in awe of the surroundings. Sea cliffs
plummeted over 100’ to the rocky tide pools and tranquil coves below. I kept
wondering who else, other than the fishermen,
have seen this amazing stretch of coast. I’m pretty sure the number of
SUPers that have explored this coastline is very slim, maybe 1? It was pretty
awesome, to say the least. Bald Eagles, harbor seals, migratory birds,
mackerel, and (off in the distance) pilot whales, were my only companions on
this adventure.
Continuing
on past Sight Point, the geology became more and more interesting. Sheer
cliffs, rock slides, and a couple really cool waterfalls perked my curiosity. I
even took the time to stand at the base of an 80’ waterfall for a dunk of the
refreshing cascade plunging into the sea. I came across hidden coves with goat
paths leading up to the ridge as well as a 100’ vertical staircase engineered
into the side of a cliff (not sure I’d climb that without a rope!). Making my
way Northeast, I finally started to see the progress of society with the
Inverness Harbor Jetty and Highland Links waterfront golf course marking the
end of my journey.
After
paddling for close to 4 hours, I was greeted by a huge bald eagle at the mouth
of the Inverness Harbor. The tide was rising, which gave me an extra push
getting into the protected harbor. The day was beautiful; barely a cloud in the
sky, downwind conditions the whole way, amazing views, wildlife, a cool
waterfall, and my family greeting me for dinner when I arrived in Inverness. It
was definitely one of the sweetest solo paddles I’ve ever done. Considering the
distance, time, remoteness of the coastline, and being in a different country,
I was stoked to have made it. My 14’ Coreban Dart was the perfect board for
this trip, and my Sawyer TSR carbon paddle felt like a glove- comfortable,
lightweight, stiff, yet just the right amount of flex.
This was a
great final distance training run as well. The following weekend, I completed
the 36 mile Cape Cod Bay Crossing, back in Massachusetts. Stoked on Sawyer and
Coreban! And grateful for my wife for being my number one supported for all my
SUP adventures!
